Graceland

What is it? Elvis’s Home and Grave.
How to get there: We caught a bus with a tour company (included in the price of the ticket) which is probably the easiest way if you don’t have a car. Bus number 43 should take you past Graceland.
Address:3765 Elvis Presley Blvd., Memphis, TN 38116
Website:http://www.elvis.com/graceland/
How much: For the Graceland Platinum Tour the entry fee is $33 for adults, $29.70 for seniors and students, $12.00 for children 7-12

What sort of tourist would I be if I went to Memphis and didn’t go to Graceland? It’s a lovely melting pot of kitsch and tacky excess that goes hand in hand with super-stardom. As you can tell, I’m not an Elvis fan! The house itself is actually quite beautiful, although it is now very dated. The meditation gardens of Graceland contain the graves of Elvis, his parents and his grandmother which are surrounded by flowers and candles of fans.

For me the highlight had to be the Jungle Room. How can you not love a room with green shagpile on the roof and the ceiling with suitably themed furniture and indoor waterfall? So awesome. Also awesome was the grilled banana and peanut butter sandwich from one of the many restaurants / shops they had conveniently located at every exit of every single one of the different attractions. I didn’t actually buy anything as the Elvis bobble heads I so desperately wanted cost $20 and that was above my tatt buying limit.

Memphis Brooks Museum of Art

What is it? Premier Art Gallery in Memphis, located within Overton Park.
How to get there: Catch bus 50 from Poplar Ave or the North Terminal. You canalso catch a Taxi for about $8-10.
Address: 1934 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN 38104 
Website: http://www.brooksmuseum.org/
How much: Entry fee is $7 for adults, $6 for seniors and $3 for students.

Collection:
The entry level contains their permanent collection which is a mixture of European and American art from a number of movements. The top level contains antiquities and artifacts. The bottom level is home to changing exhibits, which tend to be a mixture of American and travelling exhibits from Europe.

Highlights:
I started in the upper level as I arrived at the same time as a very large and loud group of children who happened to be viewing the temporary exhibition on the lower level. On entry to the upper level, I was immediately drawn to the small display showing the Ethopian Christian Art. In particular, the Healing Scroll and Gospel Book (Tempura on vellum, both 19th century). I’m not a fan of religious art personally but these books had such a fresh and vibrant way of capturing bible stories. The rest of the collection was mainly tribal masks, wooden carvings and pottery. I particularly liked the Elephant Society Mask from Bamileke, Africa, Cameroon (Raffia, canvas embroidered with beads). Member’s of the important men’s association Kuosi wear the mask as a symbol of wealth and power. You can see a picture here: http://www.brooksmuseum.org/africanart

There was also a smaller section (which is listed as “changing” on the map) which featured local art. The whimsical “Tennessee S. Curve” by Red Grooms (2001, Enamel on epoxy on styrofoam, b. 1937 America) with it’s ridiculous large cars and friendly people was an accurate representation of Memphis. Carroll Cloar’s (US, 1913-1993) “My Father was as big as a Tree” was a strange and sadly haunting representation of a child’s relationship with their father.

Moving back to the ground level, it was hard not to take notice of the giant obelisk in the main rotunda. Naim June Paik’s (1932-2006, Korean) modern day representation of an obelisk is certainly eye catching with it’s old school TV sets and neon lights. There was an ancient Egyptian city called Memphis which was its inspiration.

I was personally disappointed with the European collection and that’s partially because I’m biased in living in London and being a frequent visitor to galleries here and across Europe. They had a sizeable collection of Dutch masters, French impressionists and English artists but nothing of note to me personally.

Their collection of American art was what really stood out which included Edward Hopper’s “Cape Cod Barn” ca. 1939 and Jackson Pollack’s “Untitled from Number 19” painted in 1951. Also worth a mention is Abbott H. Thayer’s “Glady’s” painted in 1915. It’s a striking portrait of a woman using a rough, almost hard edged brush stroke which conveyed a strong sense of misery and longing.

Finally, I ventured down to the lower level to what was my personal favourite of the entire gallery. They were showing “Pieced and Patterned: Southern Quilts, 1840-1940” which is a collection of “over 30 Southern quilts, this exhibition brings together a remarkable group of textiles from Tennessee and surrounding states. Ranging from elaborately appliquéd or stitched needlework, to simple utilitarian bed covers made of scraps or flour bags, Pieced and Patterned offers an exciting opportunity to experience these beautiful, fascinating, and evocative examples of Southern material culture.” Whilst I’m not an avid quilter (or even remotely interested in it), I loved it because it was such a wonderful example of the local culture and totally unlike anything I’ve ever seen before.

National Civil Rights Museum

What is it? Located at the Lorraine hotel where Martin Luther King was shot, chronicles the key episodes and history of the American Civil Rights Movement.
How to get there: Catch the tram downtown on Main Street, you can cross from there onto Mulberry Street. It’s also walking distance from the main down-town area.
Address: 450 Mulberry Street, TN 38103
Website: http://www.civilrightsmuseum.org/
How much: Entry fee is $12 for adults, $10 for seniors, $10 for students and $8.50 for children aged 4-17 years.

I managed to squeeze in a very brief visit to the National Civil Rights Museum before flying back to London. I’m very glad I did as prior to this I was completely unaware that it was in Memphis were Martin Luther King was shot. They’ve gutted the motel where it took place and literally all that remains is the facade and the rooms in which he stayed. It was incredibly sombering to read how people have been treated because of the colour of their skin. It was admirable to see how brave these people were who stood up for their rights amidst so much opposition and oppression. There is more about the museums history here: http://www.civilrightsmuseum.org/factsheet.htm and its permanent exhibitions here: http://www.civilrightsmuseum.org/permexhibits.htm